Spring Summer 2018 collections delighted with emphasis on femininity; British craftsmanship and rebellion plus a generous dose of modesty wear.
By Sandra Porto
London Fashion Week put a spring in our step in the cusp of autumn. There are many reasons to celebrate the good British rebellion springing back in crisp and impeccably skilled creations – fresh new shoots reminiscent of the provocative masters. Think about the British craftsmanship and the innate propensity to rebel. Think John Galliano and Alexander McQueen.
It was the season of extravagant femininity with voluptuous shapes of protruding hips and busts. It almost felt as if the world had been deprived of feminine curves and designers were hungry to bring them back to the catwalks. The results showed in sensational form; combined with bold craftsmanship and the return of couture elements to the catwalks, London Fashion Week felt extra special, one of those moments in fashion where only the clothes matter.
Fashion Scout triumphed at LFW, showcasing the exceptionally engaging collections from emerging talent pouring in every single performance. Apujan presented a comprehensive multi-layered collection, rich in textures and intricate details in cut-outs, origami and ruffles. With a feast laid for guests, 19.04 let all of us eat cake with plenty of femininity in pastels and candy tones. John Herrera’s Armada amplified mystery, bringing drama and couture elements to the catwalk; whereas EDDA showed us that life could be a big fun trip in bold prints and shapes executed in cartoon prints.
We were taken to New York and Sex and the City with Han Wen. The brand nailed sophisticated ghetto glamour with luscious and distressed fabrics, cut-outs and texture juxtapositions. Meanwhile, with a dramatic catwalk show, full of bold colours and sophisticated sensuality, Malan Breton defied the laws of leather by carving ruffles and curves in the material – unimaginable shapes, until executed.
Opulence, tasteful shine in copper and distressed metallics transformed Rocky Star’s models in goddesses covered in embellishment. All we could utter was: “I want to be that woman!” And just when we were floating in heaven, Mother Earth called in the shape of designer Boo Pala: her multicultural collection showcased artisanal weaving and colours in an autobiographical offering inspired by her Turkish roots.
For Olga Roh at Rohmir however, Italy offers the perfect elements of femininity. The awe-inspiring catwalk show had soprano Alessandra Massimo performing a contemporary repertoire as women and girls showcased the modern, elegant and romantic collection.
Back at the British Fashion Council Show Space at The Store Studios, we were delighted to see Edeline Lee – the brand’s shows are much anticipated for the artistry and multimedia elements. This time, there was a multi-layered presentation with live music; alongside the brand’s signature art installations. Edeline’s feminine and dreamy collection featured modesty wear alongside sensual creations demonstrating the fashion house’s ability to reach diverse women.
Speaking of diversity, one of the highlights of the SS18 has to be Markus Lupfer’s presentation where we landed on a bubble of fun. We all love living in a bubble and the brand’s uplifting prints brought to life a world of fantasy in colour of constant tropical summers.
Among the established houses, Temperley London was one of the shows where the fashion glitterati assembled – we spotted a very relaxed Hillary Alexander casually queuing and exchanging fashion tips with Amber Le Bon. We might have overheard a bit… Hillary is one reassuring strong presence, also spotted at Fashion Scout, championing the newcomers as well as recognised talents.
Inside the Lindley Hall, the relaxed mood continued as Temperley London showcased an uplifting and feminine collection in flowy silks and clashing prints – which merged into a rather beautiful harmony.
Indeed, London Fashion Week uplifted us all. It was the glory of artistry demonstrated in a wealth of details: billowing shapes, ruffles and other delicate shapes executed in a range of materials; including a noticeable increase in the use of luxurious fabrics. But the rebellion was always there – luscious and intricate, opulent designs beautifully distressed and deconstructed, made our minds dream.
The desire to create and deconstruct, the rebellion that is so much in the British creative vain. It was a breath of fresh air. It felt like London again.